“Leerhsen seems to channel his subject’s exuberant spirit, spiking his pages with Bourdainian swagger and a drizzle of lawlessness… As funny as Leerhsen is (one restaurant that Bourdain worked at in the 1980s ‘closed so abruptly that it’s a wonder Liza Minnelli and Halston weren’t trapped inside’), he’s equally adept at chronicling the dark side of his subject’s story.”